Canon EOS A2 SLR Body

With the VG-10 attached, holding the camera against the chest and utilizing the shutter release on the VG-10, the A-2 is a stealth camera, able to make candids with the subject completely relaxed. Quiet is the word in operation. Until I got used to ~not~ hearing the camera cycle, and because there is no flash confirmation in the viewfinder (drat!), I'd often think my 430EZ flash had not gone off! With the VG-10 atacched, the A-2 handles like the "pro" camera it is. While the auto-focus is now 11 years old, and with f/2.8 or faster lenses, the A-2 handles all but the dimmest lighting situations.

Though some complain about the "plasticy" feeling, none can say that this baby doesn't have the ruggedness of a "plastic" HUM-V. Light, especially easy handling in wedding-special events photography, the A2, like all Canon "pro" bodies, handles daylight fill-flash and switching from horizontal to vertical format shooting quick and easy. In most events like wedding and press conferences, I attach my BP-5 battery pack and shoot until I run out of film. This great machine can strip five frames a second(!) off a roll of film without a power booster or battery pack, great for action and sports reporting! 1/800th second shutter, "pro" (equal to the EOS 3) 1/200th flash sync, this is the machine I use for my working backup and my "going out the door to the store", running errands camera.

Some say the command dial (I think most of them simply don't take care in depressing the centr button before they attempt tp turn the dial) and though the dial construction truly sucks, the only true weakness in the A2 system is the absence of batteries in the VG-10 grip.

EOS 1n, EOS 3.

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One of the best cameras made by anybody, period. Quiet, fast with controls that are very intuitive. Since I do a lot of close up photography the mirror lockup feature is wonderful (lacking on the F100 and N 90S). It has a decent enough TTL built in flash that I use a lot to fill in the foreground or for closeup work. All the pro features that you look for are there too, such as pc terminal and diopter. The meter is so good I never use my handheld anymore, even with slides. Focusing is fast accurate, no hunting that you experience with high end Nikons. The grip had vertical controls which are great too. Other useful features are the focus lock and depth of field preview. I don't understand the complaints about the A2's command dial. I've used mine for over 7 years without any problems. In fact, the camera is very sturdy and has held up excellentlly. If you are looking for a camera with pro features at a great price get one of these while you still can and use the money you save to buy higher quality lens.

Quiet, fast, sturdy, with all the pro features you need. Accurate autofocusing and superb metering system, including spot.

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Elan and Nikon N 90 S.

Never needed.

By popular demand, here is the fix for the control wheel (and of course, I hold no responsibility for the actions of those who try to fix their A2's themselves with this advice-this is strictly for entertainment purposes only ;) To get to the command dial, you must first remove any film from your A2, put the flash up, remove any strap attached, and remove the battery/grip (remove the VG-10 if you have it as well-it will only get in the way). Now, you must take off the front panel of the camera. Unscrew the following screws for this: the two on the left side holding the camera back eject button onto the camrea. Then, remove the screw in the flash area (should be pointing straight down at the front of the flash housing), the screw on the bottom of the lens mount (do NOT remove the lens mount screws, as this will not get you any panels that you need removed), the two screws below the flash but above the lens mount, and the two screws holding the front panel on in the battery compartment. Okay, take off the front now (there should not be any other screws, but if it does not give freely, check again before you break anything). Now, you must remove the top panel. To do this, there will be two screws you need to remove near the viewfinder on the back, one under the right strap ring, and one facing up in the battery compartment. I don't think I have missed any, but double check to make sure as this panel should also pull up easily once all screws are removed, however, there are electronic cat-cables attached to the top panel and electronics on the metal skeleton so this top panel WILL NOT COME OFF all the way. This is where deftly controlled skills will determine your success...you must aim the top panel away from yourself over the front of the camera so that the underside of the flash, LCD cover, and control wheel are visible. Now, you will see the control wheel. There should be a screw holding a piece of metal to the "nubbin" on the wheel (the same nubbin that needs to be pushed down to turn the camera from the off position to an auto or manual mode). Sometimes this screw just needs to be tightened. Sometimes the problem lies in the tiny metal marble-ball that is pushed by a spring within the "cage" on the underside of the control wheel. The spring on mine needed to be stretched to revive its compression power. Sometimes the ball itself is floating around in

Quiet, relatively fast AF and film transport (5fps), and I can''t stress enough: IT DOESN''T MATTER IF IT IS PLASTIC! THIS SUFFERED FALLING DOWN AN 800FT. HILL/CLIFF and WORKS AS NEW! (Bought off of my friend for $100 after that happened because the back was broken-fixed myself with a little elbow grease and some luck) Plus, I left it in my photo-back pack wiht the flap open and when I went to put it on, the camera flew out of the bag and hit the wall, straight on. Consequences? Some white paint marks on the grip and a huge dent in the wall! Built like a tank! Solid feel, and the VG-10 grip makes it one of the nicest to use pro-SLR''s you can get. Why spend $800-1000 for a magnesium Nikon F100? This is way quieter and you can''t get inexpensive USM lenses for an F100-you get AFS lenses that cost an arm and a leg and aren''t nearly as fast or quiet! Important for courtroom work, or weddings, or anything that requires SILENCE!

Just about everything EXCEPT...

...the control wheel. Fixed that myself though-email me if you need to know how. It is EASY as long as you have a screwdriver small enough for the tiny screws Canon uses. I would like it to have the same AF as the EOS 3 so I could use it with a 2x TC at F8 to F11 for some lenses, but up to f5.6 will work for now.

Nikon N65, N80, F100, EOS 650, Rebel X, Rebel 2000, Elan II, and lots of those cheapo Minolta and Pentax SLR''s (I work at a photography store)

Haven''t had to use-I''m a do-it-yourselfer, so I don''t like to pay someone or rely on someone else to fix my stuff. I no longer have a backup body, so to send this off would be heathenistic! Other

Here is a copy of the Letter I faxed to Canon. Dear Marlene, After speaking with one of your employees she decided that I should fax you the enclosed documents for your review. I purchased 2 Canon A2E cameras. Both cameras broke with the exact problem. Other people I spoke with had this same problem with their A2E command dial. I sent both cameras in to be repaired for a fee of 58.00 each. Less that 16 months later the same problem is back, the command dial is once again broken. I sent the A2E in for repair thinking it would be repaired for free since it surely is a design, or manufacturing defect. The cameras have had minimal use, & as you can see they have been proudly cared for, Original packaging along with all documentation was retained. When I received the repair estimate I was shocked & disappointed to see a charge for 121.00. I was very disappointed in the Canon policy of selling high priced products & then charging higher rates for each successive repair to their products. The command dial problem exists in all A2E’s. I have spent several hours in newsgroups, photography chat rooms & discussions with other photographers about Canons problems with the command dial. Canons policy on the A2E command dial problem should be looked at & recalled. To have to repair to a previously repaired cameraless than 1 1/2 years later on a 600.00 camera should be handled better than this. I just wish Canon would admit their problems like Firestone & Ford did & move on with the business at hand. Please contact me about this problem. Larry Counts 54393 Jack Macomb Mi 48042 810-677-9848 Voice / Fax

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